Since the 1990s, fast fashion has made it possible for everyday people to buy the latest catwalk trends. But the sheer volume of clothing being scraped up, sold and quickly discarded is contributing to a global sustainability crisis. Now, at a time when the fashion industry should be waking up and getting out of this vicious cycle, it’s going in the opposite direction. We are in a downward spiral from fast fashion to super fast fashion. The consumption of natural resources and the amount of waste produced are snowballing.
Ultra-fast fashion is characterized by even faster production cycles, a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it tendency, and poor labor practices. Brands like Shein, Boohoo and Cider are breaking free from the concept of seasonal collections. Instead, they produce clothing at breakneck speed and generate micro-trends themselves like ballet core, Barbie core, and even mermaid core. At the same time, there are limits to transparency and accountability around the clothing supply chain. (Also read: Bow Fashion 101: From Deepika Padukone to Priyanka Chopra, 5 Bollywood divas who have mastered this viral fashion trend )
We cannot allow the overproduction and consumption of clothing to continue as it is. At this rate, industry will account for 26% of the world’s carbon budget to limit global warming to his 2°C by 2050. The fashion industry must take responsibility for its actions. Policy makers also have a key role to play in enabling the necessary transition to a more responsible and circular fashion economy. And don’t forget the power of the consumer.
How much do cheap clothes cost?
It was once thought that the pandemic would trigger a shift to a more sustainable fashion industry. Unfortunately, the reality is that the industry is getting worse, not better. Following the most famous Shein, founded in 2008, most super fast fashion brands emerged in his late 2010s. These online direct-to-consumer brands exploded in popularity during lockdown, with Shein retaining his 2010 title of world’s most popular brand. 2020.
Long-established brands such as Gap release 12,000 new products a year, while H&M releases 25,000 new products. But Shein ignored them and within the same time he listed 1.3 million items. How is that possible? Lightning-fast fashion models leverage data and addictive social media marketing to grow and create insatiable consumer demand.
But Shein’s incredibly low prices (the website features thousands of items under $5 AUD) comes at a human cost. According to the company’s own 2021 Sustainability and Social Impact Report (later removed from the site), only 2% of its factories and warehouses meet safety standards for its own workers, with the remainder requiring corrective action. It turned out to be.
The brand also eliminated its in-house designers. Instead, we work with independent suppliers who can design and manufacture garments in two weeks. The result is an incredibly profitable business model. Shein filed for an initial public offering last year, valuing the brand at $136 billion, up from $2.5 billion in 2018.
The transition from fast fashion to ultra-fast fashion has serious environmental and social consequences. This also includes exploitative labor practices. Shine’s garment workers reportedly work 75 hours a week, and the warehouse is open to her 24/7. Ignoring this change is not just a fashion faux pas. Doing so would jeopardize national efforts towards a more sustainable fashion industry.
Seamless transition to sustainability
The Fashion Council of Australia is leading a national product stewardship plan called Seamless that promises to transform the fashion industry by 2030. The idea is to bring fashion into the circular economy. Ultimately that will mean zero waste, but in the meantime, designing with minimal waste means that raw materials are kept in the supply chain for as long as possible.
Members contribute a 4-cent levy for each item of clothing they produce or import. These funds will be used for clothing collections, research, recycling projects and educational campaigns. BIG W, David Jones, Lorna Jane, Rip Curl, RM Williams, THE ICONIC, Susan Group and Cotton On are Seamless Foundation members. Each contributed A$100,000 to the development of this plan.
As one of the world’s first industry-led collective product stewardship initiatives for clothing textiles, Seamless offers a unique opportunity to drive change towards a more sustainable and circular fashion industry.
However, there is a risk that ultra-fast fashion brands may act as free riders on Seamless, reaping the benefits of investments and initiatives without making meaningful contributions. Schein and other companies will continue to bring more products to market, but the end of their short lifespans will need to be addressed. But if they don’t participate in this plan, they won’t be the ones paying for it.
Government-funded consortiums must also recognize ultra-fast fashion in addressing the industry’s environmental and social sustainability challenges. At the moment they only talk about fast fashion and ignore the rise of ultra-fast fashion. For example, their global scan includes a discussion of fast fashion, but no mention of ultrafast fashion.
This also points to a broader data gap across the industry, but in the case of Seamless, this growing market segment could have major implications if ignored. Shein and Temu have customers from all walks of life and are estimated to have combined sales of $2 billion in 2024.
serious crackdown
Some brands are actively working towards a more sustainable future. But other companies, such as Tem, are learning from Shein and trying to copy their business model. The transition to a more sustainable and responsible fashion industry requires a deeper understanding of ultra-fast fashion, urgent organizational change and collective efforts.
The Institute for Sustainable Futures, where I work, is a founding member of an international academic research network aimed at tackling the complexities of ultra-fast fashion. It explores how ultrafast fashion is impacting the lives of garment workers, increasing textile waste, and highlighting the industry’s struggle to embrace circular economy principles. It is included. She also researches ways to reshape consumer behavior, especially among her Gen Z consumers, away from social media-driven shopping and toward more sustainable consumption.
Last month, Federal Environment Minister Tanya Plibersek announced possible intervention by introducing minimum environmental standards or a tax on clothing, possibly by July.
The clock is ticking. The time has come to lay the foundations for a more sustainable and fair fashion industry. Australia has a rich fashion history and is home to many leading local brands, many of which have expanded internationally. These brands demonstrate what’s possible when good design, sustainability and innovation drive an industry.
Ultimately, our collective choices have immense power. By understanding the impact of our fashion habits and advocating for change, we can all be catalysts for a more sustainable and just fashion industry.
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